On a recent morning at a butler-training school in Chengdu, China, lessons began at 8 A.M., with an exercise in “opening the villa.” When I arrived at the gated development where the school is housed, a middle-aged student was on her knees scrubbing the pedals of a grand piano, while another sidestepped vacuum cleaners to hoist immaculate white furniture onto a balcony. A rotating cast of young Chinese women in black blazers took turns offering me coffee.
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