
When Sharif leaves his home in Flushing, Queens, it’s too early to say goodbye to his wife and three kids. Long before sunrise, he drives 15 minutes to a cold, brightly lit garage in Long Island City that smells of spent fuel, cleaning fluid and food that’s about to turn. There, Sharif, an Afghan native in his mid-40s, stocks the front window of his food cart with muffins and bagels from a wholesale bakery in Queens, sold to him at a markup by the garage’s owners.
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